This isn’t nearly enough, but perhaps a start on corporate responsibility? “Conn. to Probe Wal-Mart on Child Labor” http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A31047-2005Feb16.html
“D.C. Has A 'Deal' To Build Hospital Howard U. to Run SE Medical Center” http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A30281-2005Feb16.html – In regards to this. I heard that the closing of DC General was bogus. There was an article last week talking about how it wasn’t really “taking money from the city” but instead was doing fine. The article alleged that 500,000 had been essentially stolen from the hospital by the city leading to its closing. It was in that new free DC paper, the Examiner. All I know is, it wouldn’t have happened had this hospital been in Northwest.
Borrow Cautiously, Greenspan Advises Bush May Agree to Raise Social Security Tax Ceiling http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A27890-2005Feb16.html?referrer=email – so, if they are agreeing to raise the tax ceiling, why couldn’t that extra money be used to maintain the system as it is? Especially if it is the most effective anti-poverty program we have? Why ruin a (mostly) good thing? Are we that masochistic? (also found here: http://www.nytimes.com/2005/02/17/business/17fed.html?th and here: http://money.cnn.com/2005/02/16/news/economy/fed_greenspan_testimony/index.htm)
I’ve been waiting for this. I don’t know about all of the folks who said that Bush was a “fiscal conservative”. That wasn’t the president I saw. Critical Republicans Look to Cut Bush's $82 Billion War Request http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A30679-2005Feb16.html
Now, related to that… Secretary On the Offensive “Two dozen members of the House Armed Services Committee had not yet had their turn to question Defense Secretary Donald H. Rumsfeld at yesterday's hearings when he decided he had had enough.” http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A30800-2005Feb16.html You would think that someone who’s decisions affect not only the lives of thousands of US soldiers, millions of Iraqi citizens, but also all of the rest of the US and really the world wouldn’t be allowed to act like this. Our ‘decision makers’ have no information on which to base their ‘decisions’. (Maybe that’s why corporate lobbying is so successful, does money speak louder than words?)
War Helps Recruit Terrorists, Hill Told Intelligence Officials Talk Of Growing Insurgency. http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A28876-2005Feb16.html?referrer=email Who wants to be the first to say ‘duh’?! Throughout history oppressed peoples have reacted to massive brutality in the way that appears most effective. The greater the brutality the greater the resistance. I took a class on terrorism and democracy – the books had interesting insight on this (I can’t say I always agreed). I wrote a paper for it about non-violent ways to resist terrorism… maybe I’ll send it to Rummy.
Sure, act “quickly” two years after this all started (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/4268733.stm)… Maybe they went to see Hotel Rwanda. Human Rights Chief Urges U.N. to Act Quickly on Sudan http://query.nytimes.com/mem/tnt.html?tntget=2005/02/17/international/africa/17nations.html&tntemail0 Speaking of Rwanda, the French are in trouble: Rwanda lawsuit for French troops Six Rwandan citizens have filed a lawsuit in France accusing French soldiers of complicity in genocide. http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/4272437.stm
And, we’ll end with an op-ed piece. The Gay Child Left Behind http://www.nytimes.com/2005/02/17/opinion/17savage.html?th
17 February 2005
Real Events on Inauguration Day
I got this from my theory professors; I urge you to read it. I know I send a lot of things, but you’ve had a long break (and I always say I’m willing to stop sending this stuff to you).
Peace, krissy
Published on Friday, January 28, 2005 by the National Catholic Reporter
What the Rest of the World Watched on Inauguration Day
by Joan Chittister
Dublin, on U.S. Inauguration Day, didn't seem to notice. Oh, they played a few clips that night of the American president saying, "The survival of liberty in our land increasingly depends on the success of liberty in other lands."
But that was not their lead story.
The picture on the front page of The Irish Times was a large four-color picture of a small Iraqi girl. Her little body was a coil of steel. She sat knees up, cowering, screaming madly into the dark night. Her white clothes and spread hands and small tight face were blood-spattered. The blood was the blood of her father and mother, shot through the car window in Tal Afar by American soldiers while she sat beside her parents in the car, her four brothers and sisters in the back seat.
A series of pictures of the incident played on the inside page, as well. A 12-year-old brother, wounded in the fray, falls face down out of the car when the car door opens, the pictures show. In another, a soldier decked out in battle gear, holds a large automatic weapon on the four children, all potential enemies, all possible suicide bombers, apparently, as they cling traumatized to one another in the back seat and the child on the ground goes on screaming in her parent's blood.
No promise of "freedom" rings in the cutline on this picture. No joy of liberty underlies the terror on these faces here.
I found myself closing my eyes over and over again as I stared at the story, maybe to crush the tears forming there, maybe in the hope that the whole scene would simply disappear.
But no, like the photo of a naked little girl bathed in napalm and running down a road in Vietnam served to crystallize the situation there for the rest of the world, I knew that this picture of a screaming, angry, helpless, orphaned child could do the same.
The soldiers standing in the dusk had called "halt," the story said, but no one did. Maybe the soldiers' accents were bad. Maybe the car motor was unduly noisy. Maybe the children were laughing loudly -- the way children do on family trips. Whatever the case, the car did not stop, the soldiers shot with deadly accuracy, seven lives changed in an instant: two died in body, five died in soul.
BBC news announced that the picture was spreading across Europe like a brushfire that morning, featured from one major newspaper to another, served with coffee and Danish from kitchen table to kitchen table in one country after another. I watched, while Inauguration Day dawned across the Atlantic, as the Irish up and down the aisle on the train from Killarney to Dublin, narrowed their eyes at the picture, shook their heads silently and slowly over it, and then sat back heavily in their seats, too stunned into reality to go back to business as usual -- the real estate section, the sports section, the life-style section of the paper.
Here was the other side of the inauguration story. No military bands played for this one. No bulletproof viewing stands could stop the impact of this insight into the glory of force. Here was an America they could no longer understand. The contrast rang cruelly everywhere.
I sat back and looked out the train window myself. Would anybody in the United States be seeing this picture today? Would the United States ever see it, in fact? And if it is printed in the United States, will it also cross the country like wildfire and would people hear the unwritten story under it?
There are 54 million people in Iraq. Over half of them are under the age of 15. Of the over 100,000 civilians dead in this war, then, over half of them are children. We are killing children. The children are our enemy. And we are defeating them.
"I'll tell you why I voted for George Bush," a friend of mine said. "I voted for George Bush because he had the courage to do what Al Gore and John Kerry would never have done."
I've been thinking about that one.
Osama Bin Laden is still alive. Sadam Hussein is still alive. Abu Musab al-Zarqawi is still alive. Baghdad, Mosul and Fallujah are burning. But my government has the courage to kill children or their parents. And I'm supposed to be impressed.
That's an unfair assessment, of course. A lot of young soldiers have died, too. A lot of weekend soldiers are maimed for life. A lot of our kids went into the military only to get a college education and are now shattered in soul by what they had to do to other bodies.
A lot of adult civilians have been blasted out of their homes and their neighborhoods and their cars. More and more every day. According to U.N. Development Fund for Women, 15 percent of wartime casualties in World War I were civilians. In World War II, 65 percent were civilians. By the mid '90s, over 75 percent of wartime casualties were civilians.
In Iraq, for every dead U.S. soldier, there are 14 other deaths, 93 percent of them are civilian. But those things happen in war, the story says. It's all for a greater good, we have to remember. It's all to free them. It's all being done to spread "liberty."
From where I stand, the only question now is who or what will free us from the 21st century's new definition of bravery. Who will free us from the notion that killing children or their civilian parents takes courage?
A Benedictine Sister of Erie, Sister Joan is a best-selling author and well-known international lecturer. She is founder and executive director of Benetvision: A Resource and Research Center for Contemporary Spirituality, and past president of the Conference of American Benedictine Prioresses and the Leadership Conference of Women Religious. Sister Joan has been recognized by universities and national organizations for her work for justice, peace and equality for women in the Church and society. She is an active member of the International Peace Council.
© 2005 The National Catholic Reporter
Peace, krissy
Published on Friday, January 28, 2005 by the National Catholic Reporter
What the Rest of the World Watched on Inauguration Day
by Joan Chittister
Dublin, on U.S. Inauguration Day, didn't seem to notice. Oh, they played a few clips that night of the American president saying, "The survival of liberty in our land increasingly depends on the success of liberty in other lands."
But that was not their lead story.
The picture on the front page of The Irish Times was a large four-color picture of a small Iraqi girl. Her little body was a coil of steel. She sat knees up, cowering, screaming madly into the dark night. Her white clothes and spread hands and small tight face were blood-spattered. The blood was the blood of her father and mother, shot through the car window in Tal Afar by American soldiers while she sat beside her parents in the car, her four brothers and sisters in the back seat.
A series of pictures of the incident played on the inside page, as well. A 12-year-old brother, wounded in the fray, falls face down out of the car when the car door opens, the pictures show. In another, a soldier decked out in battle gear, holds a large automatic weapon on the four children, all potential enemies, all possible suicide bombers, apparently, as they cling traumatized to one another in the back seat and the child on the ground goes on screaming in her parent's blood.
No promise of "freedom" rings in the cutline on this picture. No joy of liberty underlies the terror on these faces here.
I found myself closing my eyes over and over again as I stared at the story, maybe to crush the tears forming there, maybe in the hope that the whole scene would simply disappear.
But no, like the photo of a naked little girl bathed in napalm and running down a road in Vietnam served to crystallize the situation there for the rest of the world, I knew that this picture of a screaming, angry, helpless, orphaned child could do the same.
The soldiers standing in the dusk had called "halt," the story said, but no one did. Maybe the soldiers' accents were bad. Maybe the car motor was unduly noisy. Maybe the children were laughing loudly -- the way children do on family trips. Whatever the case, the car did not stop, the soldiers shot with deadly accuracy, seven lives changed in an instant: two died in body, five died in soul.
BBC news announced that the picture was spreading across Europe like a brushfire that morning, featured from one major newspaper to another, served with coffee and Danish from kitchen table to kitchen table in one country after another. I watched, while Inauguration Day dawned across the Atlantic, as the Irish up and down the aisle on the train from Killarney to Dublin, narrowed their eyes at the picture, shook their heads silently and slowly over it, and then sat back heavily in their seats, too stunned into reality to go back to business as usual -- the real estate section, the sports section, the life-style section of the paper.
Here was the other side of the inauguration story. No military bands played for this one. No bulletproof viewing stands could stop the impact of this insight into the glory of force. Here was an America they could no longer understand. The contrast rang cruelly everywhere.
I sat back and looked out the train window myself. Would anybody in the United States be seeing this picture today? Would the United States ever see it, in fact? And if it is printed in the United States, will it also cross the country like wildfire and would people hear the unwritten story under it?
There are 54 million people in Iraq. Over half of them are under the age of 15. Of the over 100,000 civilians dead in this war, then, over half of them are children. We are killing children. The children are our enemy. And we are defeating them.
"I'll tell you why I voted for George Bush," a friend of mine said. "I voted for George Bush because he had the courage to do what Al Gore and John Kerry would never have done."
I've been thinking about that one.
Osama Bin Laden is still alive. Sadam Hussein is still alive. Abu Musab al-Zarqawi is still alive. Baghdad, Mosul and Fallujah are burning. But my government has the courage to kill children or their parents. And I'm supposed to be impressed.
That's an unfair assessment, of course. A lot of young soldiers have died, too. A lot of weekend soldiers are maimed for life. A lot of our kids went into the military only to get a college education and are now shattered in soul by what they had to do to other bodies.
A lot of adult civilians have been blasted out of their homes and their neighborhoods and their cars. More and more every day. According to U.N. Development Fund for Women, 15 percent of wartime casualties in World War I were civilians. In World War II, 65 percent were civilians. By the mid '90s, over 75 percent of wartime casualties were civilians.
In Iraq, for every dead U.S. soldier, there are 14 other deaths, 93 percent of them are civilian. But those things happen in war, the story says. It's all for a greater good, we have to remember. It's all to free them. It's all being done to spread "liberty."
From where I stand, the only question now is who or what will free us from the 21st century's new definition of bravery. Who will free us from the notion that killing children or their civilian parents takes courage?
A Benedictine Sister of Erie, Sister Joan is a best-selling author and well-known international lecturer. She is founder and executive director of Benetvision: A Resource and Research Center for Contemporary Spirituality, and past president of the Conference of American Benedictine Prioresses and the Leadership Conference of Women Religious. Sister Joan has been recognized by universities and national organizations for her work for justice, peace and equality for women in the Church and society. She is an active member of the International Peace Council.
© 2005 The National Catholic Reporter
24 January 2005
Robo-Soldiers
The following is a rather fragmented reflection on recent events, but I am not sure how to collect all of my thoughts on this.
Today the Washington Post published an article entitled “Army Prepares 'Robo-Soldier' for Iraq” (http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A31968-2005Jan24.html) (the BBC did a similar article: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/americas/4199935.stm) discussing the deployment of machine-gun laden remote control robots to Iraq this spring. This development brings the inhumanity of war to a new level.
By developing these remote control killing machines, the act of taking one’s life becomes a more distant and less meaningful act. War becomes a virtual-reality video game in which the value of human life is disregarded; soldiers are able to operate deadly machinery as they would a remote control car.
The discussion of the autonomy of these ‘soldiers’ is even more frightening. The Pentagon’s goal of creating robots that are able to “navigate rough terrain, avoid obstacles and make decisions about certain tasks on their own” is devastatingly frightening. For now Perceptek Inc, the developers of robotic systems for military use, claim that “there always will be a person in the loop” but this “problem” of autonomy discussed in yesterday’s article brings up questions as to the possibility of mistaking allies for enemies, and, equally important, demonstrates the disregard this war has for human life. By allowing machines to cause mass destruction and death we wipe the guilt from our hands, and become absent destroyers.
War is supposed to be hard: a last resort following extensive diplomacy and negotiation. Weapons that allow war to be performed through the actions of adolescent video games will allow decisions to enter war more likely and easy. The death of Iraqi citizens has already been unreported; their lives ignored. The enactment of video-game warfare further disregards the humanity of those we kill. I want my friends to be safe and to come home, but this is not the way to expedite the war.
The argument behind the development of SWORDS is that they will save both money and time: “They don’t need to be trained, fed or clothed. They can be boxed up and warehoused between wars. They never complain. And there are no letters to write home if they meet their demise in battle”. These comments completely disrespect the work of soldiers currently serving in the armed forces.
I know that these robots could save US lives, and perhaps I'm being horribly insensitive. It just seems to be that 1) avoiding war, 2) funding domestic social service programs (preventing people from having to enlist to pay for school, etc), and 3) taking care of veterans is a better way to do this. Why can't the killing just stop?
Today the Washington Post published an article entitled “Army Prepares 'Robo-Soldier' for Iraq” (http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A31968-2005Jan24.html) (the BBC did a similar article: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/americas/4199935.stm) discussing the deployment of machine-gun laden remote control robots to Iraq this spring. This development brings the inhumanity of war to a new level.
By developing these remote control killing machines, the act of taking one’s life becomes a more distant and less meaningful act. War becomes a virtual-reality video game in which the value of human life is disregarded; soldiers are able to operate deadly machinery as they would a remote control car.
The discussion of the autonomy of these ‘soldiers’ is even more frightening. The Pentagon’s goal of creating robots that are able to “navigate rough terrain, avoid obstacles and make decisions about certain tasks on their own” is devastatingly frightening. For now Perceptek Inc, the developers of robotic systems for military use, claim that “there always will be a person in the loop” but this “problem” of autonomy discussed in yesterday’s article brings up questions as to the possibility of mistaking allies for enemies, and, equally important, demonstrates the disregard this war has for human life. By allowing machines to cause mass destruction and death we wipe the guilt from our hands, and become absent destroyers.
War is supposed to be hard: a last resort following extensive diplomacy and negotiation. Weapons that allow war to be performed through the actions of adolescent video games will allow decisions to enter war more likely and easy. The death of Iraqi citizens has already been unreported; their lives ignored. The enactment of video-game warfare further disregards the humanity of those we kill. I want my friends to be safe and to come home, but this is not the way to expedite the war.
The argument behind the development of SWORDS is that they will save both money and time: “They don’t need to be trained, fed or clothed. They can be boxed up and warehoused between wars. They never complain. And there are no letters to write home if they meet their demise in battle”. These comments completely disrespect the work of soldiers currently serving in the armed forces.
I know that these robots could save US lives, and perhaps I'm being horribly insensitive. It just seems to be that 1) avoiding war, 2) funding domestic social service programs (preventing people from having to enlist to pay for school, etc), and 3) taking care of veterans is a better way to do this. Why can't the killing just stop?
02 January 2005
Request from Iraq
This is part of an email from my dear friend Nick who is currently in Iraq. I thought that you may be interested in helping him out... I'm going to be sending him some items and doing a minidrive, so, if you want to help out I'd be happy to add anythings you can donate to my load. (I may do a drive at AU after the tsunami relief work is winding down).
Sounds like it could be a project for SDAC or some of your churches???
I'd be happy to help if you are feeling inspired to do something. Contact me: I will either send your items to Nick, or give you his contact info.
peace, krissy
__________________________________________________________
Merry Christmas! I guess it's Christmas. It doesn't really seem like it.
I am in Iraq. That's about it.
The people here are friendly and people just like everyone else across the world. Sorry to be generalizing. They live the lives they have and are content with it. Many here want better lives for their children.
This is actually a more serious note. There is great need here, but more importantly, there are a lot of kids. The only way to keep our kids from fighting their kids is to reach out to the children. It'll take a generation here and this is my goal. I'd like you to attempt to gain the support of local community organizations and churches if you can. Send everything to me and I will personally ensure it is put into the hands of someone who needs it. I will take pictures and give feed back to any organizations/chruches that are involved. I have a list of things that would be preferred.
1) Tons of cheap candy. Don't get the good stuff. They don't care.
2) School supplies, especially pens and notepads.
That's a big one. The kids like to learn and write english.
3) Shoes for kids are another big item here.
4) Soccer balls and other general round balls are great. They want those everytime we go into town. Don't send basketballs or normal footballs, but smaller footballs work.
I am going to focus this stuff on the farm community because the city kids are supplied pretty regularly by our Civil affairs representative. You do not have to do this, but I think it's a good idea. DO NOT SEND MONEY.
Thank you for your support if you give it this way, but otherwise thanks for it in thought. Please go through organizations. Don't spend a lot of money buying stuff or anything like that. Use other resources. It might take up your time. I thank you for that! Take care again and enjoy your vacations if you have them!
Nick
Sounds like it could be a project for SDAC or some of your churches???
I'd be happy to help if you are feeling inspired to do something. Contact me: I will either send your items to Nick, or give you his contact info.
peace, krissy
__________________________________________________________
Merry Christmas! I guess it's Christmas. It doesn't really seem like it.
I am in Iraq. That's about it.
The people here are friendly and people just like everyone else across the world. Sorry to be generalizing. They live the lives they have and are content with it. Many here want better lives for their children.
This is actually a more serious note. There is great need here, but more importantly, there are a lot of kids. The only way to keep our kids from fighting their kids is to reach out to the children. It'll take a generation here and this is my goal. I'd like you to attempt to gain the support of local community organizations and churches if you can. Send everything to me and I will personally ensure it is put into the hands of someone who needs it. I will take pictures and give feed back to any organizations/chruches that are involved. I have a list of things that would be preferred.
1) Tons of cheap candy. Don't get the good stuff. They don't care.
2) School supplies, especially pens and notepads.
That's a big one. The kids like to learn and write english.
3) Shoes for kids are another big item here.
4) Soccer balls and other general round balls are great. They want those everytime we go into town. Don't send basketballs or normal footballs, but smaller footballs work.
I am going to focus this stuff on the farm community because the city kids are supplied pretty regularly by our Civil affairs representative. You do not have to do this, but I think it's a good idea. DO NOT SEND MONEY.
Thank you for your support if you give it this way, but otherwise thanks for it in thought. Please go through organizations. Don't spend a lot of money buying stuff or anything like that. Use other resources. It might take up your time. I thank you for that! Take care again and enjoy your vacations if you have them!
Nick
04 November 2004
Grave Disservice
Well, our nation has committed a great disservice to the world. Once again we have been blinded by privilege, power, and money. I for one am angry, shocked, and disappointed. Not only have we re-elected someone with a history of harming the world, but in many places we have made it unconstitutional to marry the person you love.
As much as this hurts, we can’t wallow in these feelings. Remember that change is not made by people who sleep. As the amazing group Sweet Honey in the Rock sings, "We who believe in freedom cannot rest". We have a lot of work to do.
As your heart is angry today remember that "the only thing necessary for the perpetuation of evil is for good people to do nothing" (Jane Elliot). We cannot "sell-out" and relax in complacency. Yes, the easy thing is to relax and ignore the evils and harsh realities of life on this planet. The easy thing is to go to work, come home, watch TV, and not challenge ourselves. I for one pledge never to resign myself to accepting the system, and I ask you to join me.
We can use our voices.
We can use our actions.
We can use our pens.
We can use our purchasing power.
We have so many skills, we need to put them to use.
We need to work in communications and end this media domination by the right. We need to work in education and teach our children to think critically. We need to work in law and public policy. We need to work in marketing and sell social justice. Two weeks ago I was at a Baltimore Ravens football game. Over 60,000 people were willing to fight for a group of people to get a ball across a line. We need to tap into this energy. We need to use our talents, whatever they are, to fix this system.
It is time to reorganize and remobilize ourselves. Progressive peoples are lacking in real leadership these days. We cannot let this fact prevent us from tackling injustice and ignorance wherever we face it.
Let this election be a reminder to you of the importance of your role in the world. Together we can change so much.
"It is not enough to be compassionate. You must act." Tenzin Gyatso (14th Dalai Lama), 1999
As much as this hurts, we can’t wallow in these feelings. Remember that change is not made by people who sleep. As the amazing group Sweet Honey in the Rock sings, "We who believe in freedom cannot rest". We have a lot of work to do.
As your heart is angry today remember that "the only thing necessary for the perpetuation of evil is for good people to do nothing" (Jane Elliot). We cannot "sell-out" and relax in complacency. Yes, the easy thing is to relax and ignore the evils and harsh realities of life on this planet. The easy thing is to go to work, come home, watch TV, and not challenge ourselves. I for one pledge never to resign myself to accepting the system, and I ask you to join me.
We can use our voices.
We can use our actions.
We can use our pens.
We can use our purchasing power.
We have so many skills, we need to put them to use.
We need to work in communications and end this media domination by the right. We need to work in education and teach our children to think critically. We need to work in law and public policy. We need to work in marketing and sell social justice. Two weeks ago I was at a Baltimore Ravens football game. Over 60,000 people were willing to fight for a group of people to get a ball across a line. We need to tap into this energy. We need to use our talents, whatever they are, to fix this system.
It is time to reorganize and remobilize ourselves. Progressive peoples are lacking in real leadership these days. We cannot let this fact prevent us from tackling injustice and ignorance wherever we face it.
Let this election be a reminder to you of the importance of your role in the world. Together we can change so much.
"It is not enough to be compassionate. You must act." Tenzin Gyatso (14th Dalai Lama), 1999
20 September 2004
Notes from my trip to Ghana: August 2004
04 August 2004
Ok, I’ve made it to Ghana!
My first flight was 3.5 hours late taking off, so I almost missed the second, yet I am here. My one little bag, however, is a different story. My fault, I didn't want to carry it around - should have. Oh, well, it will come tonight (we hope)
So far I don’t have many stories to tell. The second flight was interesting. I had a hard time with the business class thing. I kept reminding myself it was free, but it didn't help. Yes, the personal TV, the massager, the fact that it turned into a freaking bed and I got to pick from 8 movies was nice, BUT it wasn't worth it to me to have to watch people walk past me and sit somewhere where they didn't have those things, especially b/c I saw how racially divided it was. My second flight was mostly brown, but the business class was mostly white. After we dropped people off in Lagos, there was "open seating", but it was by class. People didn't know that so the guy had to keep making people leave the nice seats and go to the back. I felt like it was the 1950s on a bus somewhere - but not REMOTELY as horrid. It wasn't quite as easy to tell who was supposed to go to the back. It wasn't based as obviously in a legacy of racism, but that legacy obviously plays a huge part in who has and who does not. Regardless, it still kind of made me ill. I just want everyone to be treated the same, why is that so hard? Why is our world run on a power system controlled by money? Why do people with more money have more valued lives? Makes no sense to me.
I did sit next to an awesome guy from New Zealand though. We talked about the us for a long time. He decided that I should work for the UN. Glad I have strangers making these decisions for me.
hm...
First impressions? It’s more like Tanzania than I expected it to be. It is kind of like Dar es Salaam but not as huge of a city, more a sprawl situation. We are staying in a hotel in Accra till our luggage comes, and then moving on to cape coast (el mina, the slavery castles, and other things that I need to learn about). From there we will be going to Sodoke (where Anna lives). I won’t have internet access after today until we bring Jerod back to the airport in two weeks.
I haven't had any new foods yet, nor have I really experienced that many things different from my other trips. They have trotros here which are like the daladalas in TZ. I got to ride in one. They are essentially really rusted out vans that act as private buses. Always a good time.
I feel like I should have something profound to say, but really, I have just reinvigorated my belief that things need to change. There is no reason that we need such a wealth gap. If people are underprivileged, others by definition must be over privileged. It just hurts my heart to have to walk past the kids on the street. Every face I see, every set of beautiful eyes I look into, every heart choking down its dreams, and they all make me promise more greatly that I will do something meaningful with my life. That I will work to make the world a better place. I won’t give up.
I love you all and I promise that my next email will have lots of facts about Ghana and many many more incites. If you don’t want to hear it - let me know and I’ll keep it to my self. I normally have good reviews, except for the length :)
love always, krissy
08 August 04
Ok, so I have limited time, but SO MUCH TO TELL YOU ALL!!
First to answer the questions. Yes I got my bag and no it isn't hot here at all (I’m serious, DC was much much worse, in fact, I have been cold the last two afternoons/evenings).
Secondly, I have to correct an error. I was wrong about Accra. It is a city. I was just staying in a part called Osu, and it is sort of suburban
Now that we got that out of the way. I’ll start by acknowledging the questions you are probably asking.
Where am I staying? Basically, cheap hotels. We are working on low budget here. Think 4 people to a double bed. Hey, it works. Think no a/c, but definitely a fan! After tonight we will be going to Anna’s village and staying in her house in a village called sokode (near ho in the Volta region).
How are the bathrooms? Well, in Accra they are quite nice, they even have toilet paper! Elsewhere, not so much tp. You don’t usually flush, not the cleanest, but it works. I have no complaints (wow, I’ve changed since middle school, huh mom and dad?).
Today I had an interesting bathroom experience. Most of the time we take public transportation called a tro-tro. It is similar to a daladala in Tanzania. Basically it is a 12 passenger van made to fit between 16 and 24 people (depending on if we are in an area where the limit is enforced). Anyway, today we took a bus (for you Ghanaians the stc). When they had a stop I got out using the "well". Turns out its kind of a trough you squat over. Definitely have never done that before. It was a little unnerving b/c a lot of women had missed and you had to kind of stand in a puddle, but, again, it works! :) I have no complaints. I have forgotten that you have to carry your own toilet paper though. I kind of had to "make do" with other things one time, but, I’ll spare you the details.
So... other random things before I get to the real stuff. Um. A lot of the time when you get to take the tro tro there are people who are preaching at the station while you wait (they don’t leave till they are full). They preach to your bus, and then ask for money. One time we were with another woman named Jackie (an amazing woman from New Zealand). She turned and asked the people behind us if the preacher was crazy. They said "he is preaching". She felt kind of bad.
This isn't coming out well because I feel rushed. urg.
basically, it’s interesting how differently I see things. the first time I studied abroad I was overcome by the women with baskets on their head or with babies strapped to their backs. the markets with people selling everything you could ever want. the fact that there was no hot water in the showers and no toilet paper, and that I slept with ants drove me nuts. I was also distracted by the goats and dogs, etc. however, I have to say that this time around my thoughts are much different. I guess you get those "differences" out of the way and it’s easier to be comfortable and really get to talk to people.
ok, I’m just going to take my time and write the things I want to say. if I don’t finish, I don’t finish.
so, a few days ago we went to cape coast. at cape coast there is a castle (cape coast castle). in fante it is called oguaa. so. the castle was built by people enslaved by the Swedes in 1652. it has changed hands 5 times in the 13 years following its creation. it was the headquarters of the British occupation until 1876... and, its purpose? well, for a large part of its history it was a place where slaves were traded.
we went to the castle and took a guided tour. I can't even tell you what that felt like. we started by visiting the male dungeon. the tour guide showed us the small room people lived in. there were over 700 people in each dungeon. they were forced to eat and go to the bathroom and everything in these rooms. there was no light and no ventilation. if they "acted up" (i.e. stood up for themselves) they were sent to horrid cells which were essentially death sentences (they would suffocate to death from lack of air). the guide said that the waste in the dungeon was over 2 feet high when archeologists excavated them. the average stay of a person in this situation was 6 weeks. it made me sick to think of the lack of humanity the enslavers had and in many ways continue to have today (now who are today's enslavers??). slave ships at the time couldn't reach shore so the men were forced through tunnels onto small boats where they were placed on big ships.
the women were treated just as badly as the men. in addition, they were raped.
in comparison to these things the governor had a huge room, with a great view, a lot of light and ventilation.
the fante people had been tricked into letting the governor build on this land. they were told they were signing a bond of friendship. it was supposed to expire after 100 years, Ghana wasn't "independent" until 1957 and it wasn't until 1960 when they were completely independent politically.
so, that is sort of a summary of what we saw. I can't believe that after studying this for so long I was actually there. now, here are my thoughts.
our (the united states') entire economy is based on the backs of West African slaves. I think about the debt we owe not only to this continent, but to African American people and am completely overwhelmed. MILLIONS OF PEOPLE DIED TO MAKE OUR COUNTRY WHAT IT IS! it is absolutely absurd to me that we think that west Africa and other "indebted nations" (i.e. former places that were COLONIZED) should pay us over $2 trillion in debt (to which interest of $700 million is added daily). this prevents money from going where it NEEDS to go - to housing, health care, education, EVERYTHING WE TAKE FOR GRANTED.
after touring the castle I sat and looked at the sea. I could just picture slave ships coming into view. thousands of PEOPLE packed together, covered in filth. I went back down to the dungeon and just felt the souls of all these people who were betrayed and treated worse than animals. what can you even feel? what can you say? I’m sorry? how in the world does being sorry cover what we did? (I know a lot of you want to tell me that "we" isn't the right word to use here, but it is we who benefit today from these actions, so, I chose to use it here). there aren't even words to describe how horrendous this entire thing is. is that why we don’t think about it? I mean REALLY think about it. yeah, we learn about slavery in history
classes, but it is just an abstract thing with no relevance to us. ha! our entire lives are built on this institution. everyday our wealth, comfort, etc is taken for granted. not only because we have it and others don’t, but because of WHY we have it. how can we say we KNOW this horrid history without FEELING it, without DOING anything about it? how can we be against reparations if we know this truth? I fail to understand how the wealthiest nation cannot attempt to help? why can't we cancel this erroneous debt? why can't we fund education in inner cities in the US? why can't we admit we have screwed up, that we continue to benefit from it, and do something to make it better?
ok, I’m still hurrying too much and not really being very articulate. I apologize for that. I’m really sleepy too.
now that I’ve completely alienated my audience, I’ll continue. (I feel like I need some comic relief here, so fill this space in with a joke of your own...)
so. after visiting cape coast we went to kakum national park. it was quite beautiful. we did a canopy walk (hiking on bridges atop the trees in a rainforest).
after that we traveled to Elmina - another slave port. this castle is 522 years old. it was built by the Portuguese and was the first "western" icon on the continent. after the Portuguese it was owned by the Dutch and British. it was very similar to cape coast castle in structure and horror. here there was a balcony which the governor would stand on. they would chain women to the cement below and he would choose one to rape.
after our tour here I went down to the women’s dungeon and just felt. it’s amazing to me that not only could these sorts of things happen, but that we continue to enslave people today. it may not be in the same manner, but it is obvious that Africa is still very much enslaved. look at the world bank/imf/ international debt. it’s horrid. why is it so hard to do what is right?
I have more stories about the castles, but this is getting long and I should talk about happy things too. I promise that these things don’t make me miserable. instead, I am able to take it all in and realize that I have a purpose in my life. that I need to do as much as I can to right these wrongs. I know a lot of you have told me that you think I feel "guilty", but I don’t. it isn't my fault that all this happened. it is however my responsibility as a privileged person to do something about it. as Tim wise says "to clean up the funk". otherwise, who will?
on a better note, our tour guide Tette was awesome and I got to talk with him a little bit afterwards. he had a great perspective on acknowledging the past, accepting it, learning from it, and moving on. I think that we forget the learning part a lot.
onto the happy stuff.
after the castles we went to busua beach. it was beautiful! it is in a small village (busua) and rather free of tourists. we stayed in a small hotel and ran into several peace corps peoples. we didn't really spend much time with them, but we did have some awesome experiences talking with other people who lived in the village. I made a great friend named Nathaniel. we spent a great deal of time talking with him throughout the day. that evening Anna, Jerod, and I ate dinner down the beach at a man named jerry's place. the food was amazing. after dinner he offered to "make good vibe" with me. I wasn’t sure what that meant, but I was pretty sure I didn't want to do it. anyway, jerry and friends ended up having a bonfire for us. Nathaniel came too. I got to spend the evening talking with him about everything from his favorite food to the world bank. I learned so much hearing his perspective on international economic policy. if I had more time I would be more clear about that. basically it was really hard for him to support the world the world bank is doing in Ghana. they are currently privatizing water (which I think is abhorred as water is a human right). we talked a lot about the greed of politicians. he compared bush to mugabe, which I didn't feel was much of a stretch. anyway, I learned a lot. this morning we went jogging on the beach barefoot. he was a little fast for me so I had to work hard to keep up.
oh, and jerry had a monkey named freedom. it fell asleep in my lap.
I have to say that traveling in small groups and not with a class is rather liberating. it’s amazing to have the freedom to spend time with people and get to know people who actually live where you are visiting. it’s like when I visited Jyoti in Dubai and really got to talk to her students.
I definitely have caught a travel bug. I’m trying to figure out ways I can work for not profits/ngos during the summer and make enough money to survive. any ideas? there is so much to learn! so many people to meet! the world is so small, yet so large. we are all so different, yet so much the same. I’m doing a lot of reflecting on life, the future, and what I want to do. anyone out there want to pay me to travel so I can just write about the world? all I need is food and a place to sleep. ;)
I love being out of the US. it’s such a contrast from DC in the villages here. I love that I haven't changed my clothes in 5 days (don’t worry, I have taken some cold showers). I love that we don’t always have electricity or running water. I love that I don’t need to wear makeup and that beauty is judged by the person you are and not how you look. I love that there is no extra "stuff". it’s so funny to me how so many of us think our happiness depends on things. I love that people are real. ah! I just love it!
I feel like this email is coming across as anti-American or anti-us. I don’t mean it to be at all. I love my home. I love the us. I just wish that we were a more reflective people. and I love that I have the ability to go to these places and learn so many new things. its b/c I live in a wonderful place that this is even possible.
I have to tell you that Anna and I are iming right now. this is silly b/c we are in the same computer lab. its also silly b/c we used to do it freshman year, even though we shared a desk.
wow. I have so much more to say, but I have written too much.
Anna is doing great. she is definitely in her element here. people love her and she loves them. she is beautiful.
I will leave you with the text of our favorite sign here in Ghana. the following appeared on the top of a building in cape coast:
"except the lord"
we aren't sure what that means, but it was pretty funny. almost as funny as the night there were some bugs in our bed and I asked Anna what it is like when you have bedbugs. I think I said "would you see one, or are there several". her response: "it depends on how many there are".
anyway, I’ll leave you to read the novel in peace. I’m sorry it is so long. I’m just learning so much!
love and peace, krissy
13 August 04
OK, so, in case you were wondering, I still love Ghana!
We got to Anna's village (Bagble) and it has been amazing. I think the easiest thing is to send you a day by day inventory of what we have been up to.
The first day in Sokode (the community of villages she lives in) we walked around and were introduced to everyone. There are only a few hundred people who live here, but it took us 5 hours. Some of my favorite people were Todia - he owns the local store/hang out. He gave us soda and tried to talk us into moving to Ghana. He is a super funny man. The other person who we met that was super cool was Solomon. He is very into politics. He sat with us for a few hours, gave us a beer, and talked about how bad Bush was for the world. We also talked about Ghanaian politics, and other African nations (Zimbabwe, Kenya, Liberia, Sierra Leone, etc). It was great to have someone to really talk to about all these things.
What I learned about Ghanaian politics I'll share briefly. It is a multiparty system, but, like the US there are two main parties. The NDC is similar to our democrats, and the NPP is like our republicans. There is also the CPP (started by Nkrumah) which is more like our Greens/Socialists. They have elections coming up in December.
Solomon also gave us our first Ghanaian meal - it was Banku and Okro soup (egg plant, other veggies, and fish (which I ate around) in palm oil). It was very good... yum!
The second day we were in Sokode I started with a short jog (or training as they call it here). I had one proposal, but told them my boyfriend at home would be mad. In the morning Anna, Jerod, and I worked on her farm with See-Saw and Comfort (two employees). They are amazing and we had a lot of fun. We also got treated to Palm Wine by some guys in the woods. The guys are hilarious, and the wine is amazing.
For lunch we had bobo - which is beans, gari, and plantains. Gari is cassava.
That afternoon we went to the neighboring village and met the chief. It was really fun, but slightly awkward. We were serenaded by American music television. This was followed by a math show. We just sort of sat in silence after initial conversation. Anna said that often the amount of time you spend with people is valued over the quality of the time. Who knows?
That evening we ate with her friends (who are amazing) and had Akple and okro soup. Her friends are Kweku, Kosi Fred, and Kosi Paul. I can't tell you how much fun we have. They have taught us several Ghanaian games (one is like mancala - I ended up being pretty good at that) and done other random activities with us. Basically, we just hang out a lot.
One thing that really bugs me is that people in the village here don't necessarily get paid. I learned that this morning. Benice is the employer at Anna's farm. See-saw and Comfort came down to work for her and have not been paid at all. Apparently that's just how it is. One day they will be paid (in theory). I got rather upset about this. They work so hard and are amazing people.
When I met Benice I got even more upset about it. She just sort of came in and ordered everyone around. She was telling Comfort and SeeSaw what to do in their own home (this was yesterday and they were making us lunch). Urg! The arrogance just hurt my soul. It wouldn't be PC for Americans to do, but the classism at home exists as well.
I'm not really being that clear on my thoughts again b/c I'm hurrying. Kosi Fred and Kweku are with us, but not really doing the internet thing.
Oh, I forgot! I have a new name. Initially I was named Ama by a man on a tro-tro, but when I got to Sokode they changed it to Akosua (hm, sound familiar Akos??) It means Sunday born (by the way, what day was I really born mom and dad?).
The third day we again went to the farm in the morning. We had some great talks with See-Saw and went and got our photo taken with the palm wine people (they were upset with us for not having our camera the day before, apparently photos are expensive here and they wanted one). See-Saw had a lot of good questions about things he has heard about the US and immigration. Why is it so hard for people who have melanin in their skin to immigrate, but not so hard for white people??? Messed up!
That day we also washed our clothes in a bucket. I'm getting good. My practice in TZ paid off.
After lunch we went to Kweku's and hung out. Kosi Fred decided that I was his new best friend. We played a lot of Mankala. They also made FuFu for us for dinner. I got to try and pound it, but we ended up just laughing at my lack of ability. So, that evening we had FuFu and light sauce. That was my favorite meal here.
I have to say, this trip is so much different than my others to Africa. Living in a town with people is so different than being a tourist. I am learning so much more about myself and about people in general. Things I can't yet articulate. Perhaps, when I return home, my email will be deeper and not so time-line-ish. You are probably bored...
The next day we again worked the farm in the AM and planted sticks. Apparently they will grow into a fence. That day we had lunch with See-Saw and Comfort (see above) and Benice was there ordering them around. The reason for her presence is b/c Mr. Bansah (Anna's landlord) threw us a Bobobo (those o's should be backward c's, but there isn't a key for that on the computer).
What, you may ask, is a bobobo?? Well, I didn't know either! It was supposed to start at 2 and at 3:45 we heard the drumming coming. A huge mass of people came with drums and were dancing. Initially we had to sit and watch and drink coconut milk (I love coconuts by the way). I have to say I was really uncomfortable having people "perform" for me. However, it was short lived and I got to join the dancing. The women were really patient with me in trying to learn the steps. After the first hour I started to get the hang of things and was more comfortable. It was so much fun. We danced for about two hours until the Ghanaian football match (Olympics) started and those with TV’s or access to a TV wanted to go watch. I also got anointed by Benice and others with beads. The only odd part was the drunk guy who wanted to pay special attention to Anna and me. The other women took care of that. The best part was afterwards when I was asked if I played music. They thought my
dancing was good (I have tried - that means good job). They may have just been being nice, but, I'll appreciate it.
Today we went with Kosi and Kweku to a place called Tobor falls. It was absolutely beautiful. We had a 45 walk in and out and stayed at the falls for about 45 minutes as well. The guys are so much fun. Kosi and I had a good talk about gender equality on the way home.
OK, so there are two things I wanted to write about but had forgotten in my last email.
One is this problem of money. People here need it. Tourism is a great way for them to get it. However, it seems to me a form of neo-colonialism. Like these "white saviours" coming and helping the poor black folk and spending their money. I don't know. I just wish that things were different. I wish we could drop the debt and work to really repair the damage we have done. I fear that instead we will continue on this destructive path until we succeed in destroying ourselves.
I like Anna's village b/c I don't feel that sense of tourism and white hierarchy as potently as I did in the tourist areas. Plus, I've made new amazing friends.
OK, this one was rather weak on deep thoughts, but, maybe when I get home and have more time to process everything I'll be better with that.
This weekend Kosi Fred, Kweku, and Kosi Paul are throwing us another bobobo. It will be a blast. Jerod leaves, and after that Anna and I will continue to play in Sokode. I think she is going to take me to a place called Odamasi which is a bead market. They have beads there that were used to buy people. My stomach hurts just thinking about it all.
I love you all and miss you. I am safe and happy (albeit a little dirty and smelly. Om, if you pick me up from the airport, I apologize now).
Peace, krissy
Thursday, August 19, 2004 11:25 AM
The internet is really, really slow today, so I may get frustrated, but we'll see.
So. After I last wrote to you we spent another night in Accra. There I went to the DuBois center. It is the house where DuBois lived for the two years before his death. He was being haunted/hunted by the CIA and Nkrumah invited him to live here. So, he did. The house was interesting, I didn't learn a lot, but it was awesome to see. All you who took Paideia should know who DuBois was. He was an amazing Pan-Africanist, and much more. One story about him is that he got his Doctoral degree from Harvard. However, he was turned down for admission many times. 1) because he was black and 2) they didn't think a Fisk degree was prestigious enough. He finally got admitted but they still made him take undergrad classes and get a second BA.
There is a lot more that he has done, and it is your homework assignment to find out (just practicing in case I am ever a teacher).
In addition to visiting his house/grave site, we tried to go to Osu castle.
Unfortunately, they have turned it into a state house and you can't visit it or take photos. We did wander around the outside until someone told us to go. He was named Benjamin and wanted to "take us as his friend".
Hm. I'm a little nervous about spending time writing this, because I fear I won't be able to send it, but we'll see.
One our way back to Ho we took a tro-tro. We got on and after it filled there was a man who tried to sell a magic water bottle. It was a thermos and if you drank water out of it, it heals any disease you may have. "malaria, asthma, stroke, heart attack, and whatever, and whatever", "stroke, head ache, and so on, and so on". It even "heals diseases for old people in advance". No body bought one, but someone did offer a lower price.
He also was selling tea that helps with both malaria and menstruation.
Oh, one funny quote from the trip was when we were laying in bed one evening. Anna called Jackie British (she is from New Zealand). Jackie responded by saying "I wish you were Canadian so I could call you an American".
On a similar note, so many of the people I meet ask me about Bush and what the chances are that Kerry will win. Bush is definitely not popular here; they all think that he does bad things for the American people and the world in general. At least the rest of the world is pulling for Kerry.
Before I forget, thank you to all you who sent birthday greetings. If you didn't, don't feel bad, I forgot too for most of the day. Besides, I probably don't know when yours is.
Once we got back to Sokode (on the 17th). We went to Kweku's and said goodbye to Kosi. Kosi went to Kumasi (a city in central Ghana) for work for a few months. It was sad to say goodbye, but I did get to give him an R.
Kelly CD (he really loves music and didn't know R&B) and my Nalgene bottle.
The guys are really impressed with Nalgenes and the fact that they don't break. Kweku said they spent a long time trying to break it.
Ah, Abra (Anna's Ghanaian name) has amazing friends. I can't tell you how much I enjoy hanging out with them.
The 18th we started the day at the farm and then went to Kweku's for lunch/dinner. En route I got to meet the town drunk. She is also the town midwife. Another reason that Anna says she will not have a child here.
I have learned that I am not good at pingpong and am a failure at Checkers - Ghana style. The rules are different, but I am not sure I really understand them.
I'm still struggling with what I wrote in the last email. I want to rescind the idea that everyone can accomplish anything in the US. I think that was too privileged to write. I don't face racism, poverty, and everything daily. I walk the streets here and think about how uncomfortable it is to be chased and called "yevu", but, like I have said before, I am treated as if I am a celebrity or someone important. I may not want to be and I may do everything I can, not to be, but that's how it is. People of color in the US are treated negatively and have to stand out. I have gone jogging here and, as I traveled the road, little kids have chased me and screamed "Yevu".
Never have I felt scared. Someone I know in Decorah once got run off the road on a bike because of the color of his/her skin. One of my friends had eggs thrown at him and told to "go back to Africa". So many non-blatant forms of racism overwhelm daily lives. The average worth of a white family with the same income of a black family is 8 times higher! This is based on the history that is defining today. Because people of color have been denied access to "owning" they were not able to acquire equity. White privilege is inherited financially. There are so many other ways that I really should write about, but I definitely would take the entire day.
Basically, I am saying, that not everyone has the opportunity to do whatever they want in the US, I wasn't really thinking about everything in that last email (but I still feel the entrapment of Anna's friends. I am still wondering how much of my personal biases shape this thought). So there. I have a lot more to say about this, but not a lot of time. I have a lot to learn. I will keep doing so, and then try and fix it. Wanna help?
This morning Abra and I spent 2.5 hours waiting for a meeting that was supposed to start at 10 (she says that happens a lot), so while we were waiting we drew up a conversation outlining her typical experience as she walks through town. Here it goes:
Townsperson: "Yevu sister Abra!"
Abra: "Good morning."
T: "Fine, morning, how are the people in the house?"
A: "They are fine."
T: "Are you fine?"
A: "Yes."
T: "Did you wake up strong?:
A: "Yes"
T: "Are you alive?"
A: "Yes (to this, I think she should start saying no, and see the reaction)"
T: "Where are you going?"
A: "I am going to (Ho (city near by), Senegal, American (to make people laugh))
T: "What will you do??"
A: "I am going to work."
T: "Will you return early?"
A: "Probably evening time. (sometimes to be funny "three days", etc)
T: "What will you bring me??"
A: (normal) "Bread/ biscuit, (funny) three cows/goats/horses"
Or
T: "Bring me bread."
A: "Ok" (She doesn't actually bring it, it is just a customary things to say when someone travels)
T: "Come in time."
A: "Ok."
Three minutes later
T2: "Are you awake?"
A: "Yes."
T2: "Are you well?"
A: "Yes."
T2: "Is the husband well?"
A: "I don't have a husband." (which everyone knows already)
T2 (if male): "I will take you as my wife."
A: "Wait, and ask my father."
-or, if T2 is female -
"You should marry my son." - or - "You are grown, why?"
T2: "Where are you going." (see last section) 30 seconds later, encountering someone from out of town.
A: "Good morning."
T2: "Hey! She speaks Ewe! Oh, you try! (means good job) I will take you as my friend."
A: "Ok."
T2: "Where are you going?"
(see above).
On a side note, I won't be able to respond to individual messages today, the computer is too slow.
So, on a not so happy note, the meeting this morning was to have a photo with orphans that the NGO Anna works for is assisting. There was a little girl with them who flinched a lot, and was really afraid of everything. We are wondering if she gets picked on and/or hit. She was being drug along by an older girl who was Developmentally Disabled. I think it is great that the organization is giving responsibility to someone with a DD, but she was a very angry child and kept hitting the little girl. At one point the little girl was crying. The older girl hit her, and no one did anything to 1) reprimand her, or 2) to comfort the little girl crying. I guess I don't know what to say about it. I'm at a loss for explanation and confused as to how much my American lenses block me.
The photo situation was also rather taxing. I was invited to be in the photo but didn't want to. Too often the experience of Peace Corps volunteers is simply bringing prestige to a place because they are white.
That's the way it is, so, is it good if the volunteer does it and helps the NGO? Should they refuse because it is simply cementing the idea of white being better?
As I said, I am learning a lot about myself here. I have learned that I really am an American. I like the US. I love traveling and staying in places for months, but I don't think that I could live in a "developing" country for real. Maybe if I was with the right people who were able to keep me grounded, or if I made the friends who would. (Unless, someone wants to pay me to be a travel writer, I wouldn't mind that. I may have some serious improvement to do in regards to the actually writing, but, yeah). I think that my frustration with things I didn't support in the culture would make me crazy. I am not sure how appropriate I think it is to change things somewhere else. (But, if I was a travel writer, I could give a new perspective to those who read what I write). I think that empowering people who want to make change is great, but you cannot force a culture to change. Who am I to use my western lenses to say that something is wrong?
Who am I to tell women they shouldn't wear a veil when they want to? (look what happened when the Shah did in Iran - ok, that is too simplistic, but, you get the idea). Who am I to tell women they shouldn't have a circumcision when it would condemn them to a life of being single and therefore have great difficulty surviving? Basically, I don't think I have the right to judge the way other people live. I think that we all are within a certain group, and it is our RESPONSIBILITY to help that group live morally. I am a white American. White Americans have a lot of work to do within their own group. Anyway, what I am saying is that if I lived
elsewhere I wouldn't be able to deal with the conflicting emotions of 1) the problems I see and 2) the fact that my lenses are not theirs. Perhaps in the minds of the people living somewhere, the issues that bother me are not as important as others. Who am I to tell them what to do?
Also, I like running water and electricity. I like not smelling and not having to be called "Yevu" all the time. I like having the concept of "time" to have meaning, etc. So, while there are so many things I don't like about the US, and things I love about the places I have been, I have realized that I am an American and want to work on my own nation first.
(Before leaving I was really stressing about whether I thought I should work domestically or on international development).
OK, I think I should step off my high horse and send this email. Abra and I have other funny stories, but maybe I'll wait until people ask to hear them.
I would love a great dialogue with anyone about all this, especially if you disagree with me
Love and peace, Krissy
Ok, I’ve made it to Ghana!
My first flight was 3.5 hours late taking off, so I almost missed the second, yet I am here. My one little bag, however, is a different story. My fault, I didn't want to carry it around - should have. Oh, well, it will come tonight (we hope)
So far I don’t have many stories to tell. The second flight was interesting. I had a hard time with the business class thing. I kept reminding myself it was free, but it didn't help. Yes, the personal TV, the massager, the fact that it turned into a freaking bed and I got to pick from 8 movies was nice, BUT it wasn't worth it to me to have to watch people walk past me and sit somewhere where they didn't have those things, especially b/c I saw how racially divided it was. My second flight was mostly brown, but the business class was mostly white. After we dropped people off in Lagos, there was "open seating", but it was by class. People didn't know that so the guy had to keep making people leave the nice seats and go to the back. I felt like it was the 1950s on a bus somewhere - but not REMOTELY as horrid. It wasn't quite as easy to tell who was supposed to go to the back. It wasn't based as obviously in a legacy of racism, but that legacy obviously plays a huge part in who has and who does not. Regardless, it still kind of made me ill. I just want everyone to be treated the same, why is that so hard? Why is our world run on a power system controlled by money? Why do people with more money have more valued lives? Makes no sense to me.
I did sit next to an awesome guy from New Zealand though. We talked about the us for a long time. He decided that I should work for the UN. Glad I have strangers making these decisions for me.
hm...
First impressions? It’s more like Tanzania than I expected it to be. It is kind of like Dar es Salaam but not as huge of a city, more a sprawl situation. We are staying in a hotel in Accra till our luggage comes, and then moving on to cape coast (el mina, the slavery castles, and other things that I need to learn about). From there we will be going to Sodoke (where Anna lives). I won’t have internet access after today until we bring Jerod back to the airport in two weeks.
I haven't had any new foods yet, nor have I really experienced that many things different from my other trips. They have trotros here which are like the daladalas in TZ. I got to ride in one. They are essentially really rusted out vans that act as private buses. Always a good time.
I feel like I should have something profound to say, but really, I have just reinvigorated my belief that things need to change. There is no reason that we need such a wealth gap. If people are underprivileged, others by definition must be over privileged. It just hurts my heart to have to walk past the kids on the street. Every face I see, every set of beautiful eyes I look into, every heart choking down its dreams, and they all make me promise more greatly that I will do something meaningful with my life. That I will work to make the world a better place. I won’t give up.
I love you all and I promise that my next email will have lots of facts about Ghana and many many more incites. If you don’t want to hear it - let me know and I’ll keep it to my self. I normally have good reviews, except for the length :)
love always, krissy
08 August 04
Ok, so I have limited time, but SO MUCH TO TELL YOU ALL!!
First to answer the questions. Yes I got my bag and no it isn't hot here at all (I’m serious, DC was much much worse, in fact, I have been cold the last two afternoons/evenings).
Secondly, I have to correct an error. I was wrong about Accra. It is a city. I was just staying in a part called Osu, and it is sort of suburban
Now that we got that out of the way. I’ll start by acknowledging the questions you are probably asking.
Where am I staying? Basically, cheap hotels. We are working on low budget here. Think 4 people to a double bed. Hey, it works. Think no a/c, but definitely a fan! After tonight we will be going to Anna’s village and staying in her house in a village called sokode (near ho in the Volta region).
How are the bathrooms? Well, in Accra they are quite nice, they even have toilet paper! Elsewhere, not so much tp. You don’t usually flush, not the cleanest, but it works. I have no complaints (wow, I’ve changed since middle school, huh mom and dad?).
Today I had an interesting bathroom experience. Most of the time we take public transportation called a tro-tro. It is similar to a daladala in Tanzania. Basically it is a 12 passenger van made to fit between 16 and 24 people (depending on if we are in an area where the limit is enforced). Anyway, today we took a bus (for you Ghanaians the stc). When they had a stop I got out using the "well". Turns out its kind of a trough you squat over. Definitely have never done that before. It was a little unnerving b/c a lot of women had missed and you had to kind of stand in a puddle, but, again, it works! :) I have no complaints. I have forgotten that you have to carry your own toilet paper though. I kind of had to "make do" with other things one time, but, I’ll spare you the details.
So... other random things before I get to the real stuff. Um. A lot of the time when you get to take the tro tro there are people who are preaching at the station while you wait (they don’t leave till they are full). They preach to your bus, and then ask for money. One time we were with another woman named Jackie (an amazing woman from New Zealand). She turned and asked the people behind us if the preacher was crazy. They said "he is preaching". She felt kind of bad.
This isn't coming out well because I feel rushed. urg.
basically, it’s interesting how differently I see things. the first time I studied abroad I was overcome by the women with baskets on their head or with babies strapped to their backs. the markets with people selling everything you could ever want. the fact that there was no hot water in the showers and no toilet paper, and that I slept with ants drove me nuts. I was also distracted by the goats and dogs, etc. however, I have to say that this time around my thoughts are much different. I guess you get those "differences" out of the way and it’s easier to be comfortable and really get to talk to people.
ok, I’m just going to take my time and write the things I want to say. if I don’t finish, I don’t finish.
so, a few days ago we went to cape coast. at cape coast there is a castle (cape coast castle). in fante it is called oguaa. so. the castle was built by people enslaved by the Swedes in 1652. it has changed hands 5 times in the 13 years following its creation. it was the headquarters of the British occupation until 1876... and, its purpose? well, for a large part of its history it was a place where slaves were traded.
we went to the castle and took a guided tour. I can't even tell you what that felt like. we started by visiting the male dungeon. the tour guide showed us the small room people lived in. there were over 700 people in each dungeon. they were forced to eat and go to the bathroom and everything in these rooms. there was no light and no ventilation. if they "acted up" (i.e. stood up for themselves) they were sent to horrid cells which were essentially death sentences (they would suffocate to death from lack of air). the guide said that the waste in the dungeon was over 2 feet high when archeologists excavated them. the average stay of a person in this situation was 6 weeks. it made me sick to think of the lack of humanity the enslavers had and in many ways continue to have today (now who are today's enslavers??). slave ships at the time couldn't reach shore so the men were forced through tunnels onto small boats where they were placed on big ships.
the women were treated just as badly as the men. in addition, they were raped.
in comparison to these things the governor had a huge room, with a great view, a lot of light and ventilation.
the fante people had been tricked into letting the governor build on this land. they were told they were signing a bond of friendship. it was supposed to expire after 100 years, Ghana wasn't "independent" until 1957 and it wasn't until 1960 when they were completely independent politically.
so, that is sort of a summary of what we saw. I can't believe that after studying this for so long I was actually there. now, here are my thoughts.
our (the united states') entire economy is based on the backs of West African slaves. I think about the debt we owe not only to this continent, but to African American people and am completely overwhelmed. MILLIONS OF PEOPLE DIED TO MAKE OUR COUNTRY WHAT IT IS! it is absolutely absurd to me that we think that west Africa and other "indebted nations" (i.e. former places that were COLONIZED) should pay us over $2 trillion in debt (to which interest of $700 million is added daily). this prevents money from going where it NEEDS to go - to housing, health care, education, EVERYTHING WE TAKE FOR GRANTED.
after touring the castle I sat and looked at the sea. I could just picture slave ships coming into view. thousands of PEOPLE packed together, covered in filth. I went back down to the dungeon and just felt the souls of all these people who were betrayed and treated worse than animals. what can you even feel? what can you say? I’m sorry? how in the world does being sorry cover what we did? (I know a lot of you want to tell me that "we" isn't the right word to use here, but it is we who benefit today from these actions, so, I chose to use it here). there aren't even words to describe how horrendous this entire thing is. is that why we don’t think about it? I mean REALLY think about it. yeah, we learn about slavery in history
classes, but it is just an abstract thing with no relevance to us. ha! our entire lives are built on this institution. everyday our wealth, comfort, etc is taken for granted. not only because we have it and others don’t, but because of WHY we have it. how can we say we KNOW this horrid history without FEELING it, without DOING anything about it? how can we be against reparations if we know this truth? I fail to understand how the wealthiest nation cannot attempt to help? why can't we cancel this erroneous debt? why can't we fund education in inner cities in the US? why can't we admit we have screwed up, that we continue to benefit from it, and do something to make it better?
ok, I’m still hurrying too much and not really being very articulate. I apologize for that. I’m really sleepy too.
now that I’ve completely alienated my audience, I’ll continue. (I feel like I need some comic relief here, so fill this space in with a joke of your own...)
so. after visiting cape coast we went to kakum national park. it was quite beautiful. we did a canopy walk (hiking on bridges atop the trees in a rainforest).
after that we traveled to Elmina - another slave port. this castle is 522 years old. it was built by the Portuguese and was the first "western" icon on the continent. after the Portuguese it was owned by the Dutch and British. it was very similar to cape coast castle in structure and horror. here there was a balcony which the governor would stand on. they would chain women to the cement below and he would choose one to rape.
after our tour here I went down to the women’s dungeon and just felt. it’s amazing to me that not only could these sorts of things happen, but that we continue to enslave people today. it may not be in the same manner, but it is obvious that Africa is still very much enslaved. look at the world bank/imf/ international debt. it’s horrid. why is it so hard to do what is right?
I have more stories about the castles, but this is getting long and I should talk about happy things too. I promise that these things don’t make me miserable. instead, I am able to take it all in and realize that I have a purpose in my life. that I need to do as much as I can to right these wrongs. I know a lot of you have told me that you think I feel "guilty", but I don’t. it isn't my fault that all this happened. it is however my responsibility as a privileged person to do something about it. as Tim wise says "to clean up the funk". otherwise, who will?
on a better note, our tour guide Tette was awesome and I got to talk with him a little bit afterwards. he had a great perspective on acknowledging the past, accepting it, learning from it, and moving on. I think that we forget the learning part a lot.
onto the happy stuff.
after the castles we went to busua beach. it was beautiful! it is in a small village (busua) and rather free of tourists. we stayed in a small hotel and ran into several peace corps peoples. we didn't really spend much time with them, but we did have some awesome experiences talking with other people who lived in the village. I made a great friend named Nathaniel. we spent a great deal of time talking with him throughout the day. that evening Anna, Jerod, and I ate dinner down the beach at a man named jerry's place. the food was amazing. after dinner he offered to "make good vibe" with me. I wasn’t sure what that meant, but I was pretty sure I didn't want to do it. anyway, jerry and friends ended up having a bonfire for us. Nathaniel came too. I got to spend the evening talking with him about everything from his favorite food to the world bank. I learned so much hearing his perspective on international economic policy. if I had more time I would be more clear about that. basically it was really hard for him to support the world the world bank is doing in Ghana. they are currently privatizing water (which I think is abhorred as water is a human right). we talked a lot about the greed of politicians. he compared bush to mugabe, which I didn't feel was much of a stretch. anyway, I learned a lot. this morning we went jogging on the beach barefoot. he was a little fast for me so I had to work hard to keep up.
oh, and jerry had a monkey named freedom. it fell asleep in my lap.
I have to say that traveling in small groups and not with a class is rather liberating. it’s amazing to have the freedom to spend time with people and get to know people who actually live where you are visiting. it’s like when I visited Jyoti in Dubai and really got to talk to her students.
I definitely have caught a travel bug. I’m trying to figure out ways I can work for not profits/ngos during the summer and make enough money to survive. any ideas? there is so much to learn! so many people to meet! the world is so small, yet so large. we are all so different, yet so much the same. I’m doing a lot of reflecting on life, the future, and what I want to do. anyone out there want to pay me to travel so I can just write about the world? all I need is food and a place to sleep. ;)
I love being out of the US. it’s such a contrast from DC in the villages here. I love that I haven't changed my clothes in 5 days (don’t worry, I have taken some cold showers). I love that we don’t always have electricity or running water. I love that I don’t need to wear makeup and that beauty is judged by the person you are and not how you look. I love that there is no extra "stuff". it’s so funny to me how so many of us think our happiness depends on things. I love that people are real. ah! I just love it!
I feel like this email is coming across as anti-American or anti-us. I don’t mean it to be at all. I love my home. I love the us. I just wish that we were a more reflective people. and I love that I have the ability to go to these places and learn so many new things. its b/c I live in a wonderful place that this is even possible.
I have to tell you that Anna and I are iming right now. this is silly b/c we are in the same computer lab. its also silly b/c we used to do it freshman year, even though we shared a desk.
wow. I have so much more to say, but I have written too much.
Anna is doing great. she is definitely in her element here. people love her and she loves them. she is beautiful.
I will leave you with the text of our favorite sign here in Ghana. the following appeared on the top of a building in cape coast:
"except the lord"
we aren't sure what that means, but it was pretty funny. almost as funny as the night there were some bugs in our bed and I asked Anna what it is like when you have bedbugs. I think I said "would you see one, or are there several". her response: "it depends on how many there are".
anyway, I’ll leave you to read the novel in peace. I’m sorry it is so long. I’m just learning so much!
love and peace, krissy
13 August 04
OK, so, in case you were wondering, I still love Ghana!
We got to Anna's village (Bagble) and it has been amazing. I think the easiest thing is to send you a day by day inventory of what we have been up to.
The first day in Sokode (the community of villages she lives in) we walked around and were introduced to everyone. There are only a few hundred people who live here, but it took us 5 hours. Some of my favorite people were Todia - he owns the local store/hang out. He gave us soda and tried to talk us into moving to Ghana. He is a super funny man. The other person who we met that was super cool was Solomon. He is very into politics. He sat with us for a few hours, gave us a beer, and talked about how bad Bush was for the world. We also talked about Ghanaian politics, and other African nations (Zimbabwe, Kenya, Liberia, Sierra Leone, etc). It was great to have someone to really talk to about all these things.
What I learned about Ghanaian politics I'll share briefly. It is a multiparty system, but, like the US there are two main parties. The NDC is similar to our democrats, and the NPP is like our republicans. There is also the CPP (started by Nkrumah) which is more like our Greens/Socialists. They have elections coming up in December.
Solomon also gave us our first Ghanaian meal - it was Banku and Okro soup (egg plant, other veggies, and fish (which I ate around) in palm oil). It was very good... yum!
The second day we were in Sokode I started with a short jog (or training as they call it here). I had one proposal, but told them my boyfriend at home would be mad. In the morning Anna, Jerod, and I worked on her farm with See-Saw and Comfort (two employees). They are amazing and we had a lot of fun. We also got treated to Palm Wine by some guys in the woods. The guys are hilarious, and the wine is amazing.
For lunch we had bobo - which is beans, gari, and plantains. Gari is cassava.
That afternoon we went to the neighboring village and met the chief. It was really fun, but slightly awkward. We were serenaded by American music television. This was followed by a math show. We just sort of sat in silence after initial conversation. Anna said that often the amount of time you spend with people is valued over the quality of the time. Who knows?
That evening we ate with her friends (who are amazing) and had Akple and okro soup. Her friends are Kweku, Kosi Fred, and Kosi Paul. I can't tell you how much fun we have. They have taught us several Ghanaian games (one is like mancala - I ended up being pretty good at that) and done other random activities with us. Basically, we just hang out a lot.
One thing that really bugs me is that people in the village here don't necessarily get paid. I learned that this morning. Benice is the employer at Anna's farm. See-saw and Comfort came down to work for her and have not been paid at all. Apparently that's just how it is. One day they will be paid (in theory). I got rather upset about this. They work so hard and are amazing people.
When I met Benice I got even more upset about it. She just sort of came in and ordered everyone around. She was telling Comfort and SeeSaw what to do in their own home (this was yesterday and they were making us lunch). Urg! The arrogance just hurt my soul. It wouldn't be PC for Americans to do, but the classism at home exists as well.
I'm not really being that clear on my thoughts again b/c I'm hurrying. Kosi Fred and Kweku are with us, but not really doing the internet thing.
Oh, I forgot! I have a new name. Initially I was named Ama by a man on a tro-tro, but when I got to Sokode they changed it to Akosua (hm, sound familiar Akos??) It means Sunday born (by the way, what day was I really born mom and dad?).
The third day we again went to the farm in the morning. We had some great talks with See-Saw and went and got our photo taken with the palm wine people (they were upset with us for not having our camera the day before, apparently photos are expensive here and they wanted one). See-Saw had a lot of good questions about things he has heard about the US and immigration. Why is it so hard for people who have melanin in their skin to immigrate, but not so hard for white people??? Messed up!
That day we also washed our clothes in a bucket. I'm getting good. My practice in TZ paid off.
After lunch we went to Kweku's and hung out. Kosi Fred decided that I was his new best friend. We played a lot of Mankala. They also made FuFu for us for dinner. I got to try and pound it, but we ended up just laughing at my lack of ability. So, that evening we had FuFu and light sauce. That was my favorite meal here.
I have to say, this trip is so much different than my others to Africa. Living in a town with people is so different than being a tourist. I am learning so much more about myself and about people in general. Things I can't yet articulate. Perhaps, when I return home, my email will be deeper and not so time-line-ish. You are probably bored...
The next day we again worked the farm in the AM and planted sticks. Apparently they will grow into a fence. That day we had lunch with See-Saw and Comfort (see above) and Benice was there ordering them around. The reason for her presence is b/c Mr. Bansah (Anna's landlord) threw us a Bobobo (those o's should be backward c's, but there isn't a key for that on the computer).
What, you may ask, is a bobobo?? Well, I didn't know either! It was supposed to start at 2 and at 3:45 we heard the drumming coming. A huge mass of people came with drums and were dancing. Initially we had to sit and watch and drink coconut milk (I love coconuts by the way). I have to say I was really uncomfortable having people "perform" for me. However, it was short lived and I got to join the dancing. The women were really patient with me in trying to learn the steps. After the first hour I started to get the hang of things and was more comfortable. It was so much fun. We danced for about two hours until the Ghanaian football match (Olympics) started and those with TV’s or access to a TV wanted to go watch. I also got anointed by Benice and others with beads. The only odd part was the drunk guy who wanted to pay special attention to Anna and me. The other women took care of that. The best part was afterwards when I was asked if I played music. They thought my
dancing was good (I have tried - that means good job). They may have just been being nice, but, I'll appreciate it.
Today we went with Kosi and Kweku to a place called Tobor falls. It was absolutely beautiful. We had a 45 walk in and out and stayed at the falls for about 45 minutes as well. The guys are so much fun. Kosi and I had a good talk about gender equality on the way home.
OK, so there are two things I wanted to write about but had forgotten in my last email.
One is this problem of money. People here need it. Tourism is a great way for them to get it. However, it seems to me a form of neo-colonialism. Like these "white saviours" coming and helping the poor black folk and spending their money. I don't know. I just wish that things were different. I wish we could drop the debt and work to really repair the damage we have done. I fear that instead we will continue on this destructive path until we succeed in destroying ourselves.
I like Anna's village b/c I don't feel that sense of tourism and white hierarchy as potently as I did in the tourist areas. Plus, I've made new amazing friends.
OK, this one was rather weak on deep thoughts, but, maybe when I get home and have more time to process everything I'll be better with that.
This weekend Kosi Fred, Kweku, and Kosi Paul are throwing us another bobobo. It will be a blast. Jerod leaves, and after that Anna and I will continue to play in Sokode. I think she is going to take me to a place called Odamasi which is a bead market. They have beads there that were used to buy people. My stomach hurts just thinking about it all.
I love you all and miss you. I am safe and happy (albeit a little dirty and smelly. Om, if you pick me up from the airport, I apologize now).
Peace, krissy
Thursday, August 19, 2004 11:25 AM
The internet is really, really slow today, so I may get frustrated, but we'll see.
So. After I last wrote to you we spent another night in Accra. There I went to the DuBois center. It is the house where DuBois lived for the two years before his death. He was being haunted/hunted by the CIA and Nkrumah invited him to live here. So, he did. The house was interesting, I didn't learn a lot, but it was awesome to see. All you who took Paideia should know who DuBois was. He was an amazing Pan-Africanist, and much more. One story about him is that he got his Doctoral degree from Harvard. However, he was turned down for admission many times. 1) because he was black and 2) they didn't think a Fisk degree was prestigious enough. He finally got admitted but they still made him take undergrad classes and get a second BA.
There is a lot more that he has done, and it is your homework assignment to find out (just practicing in case I am ever a teacher).
In addition to visiting his house/grave site, we tried to go to Osu castle.
Unfortunately, they have turned it into a state house and you can't visit it or take photos. We did wander around the outside until someone told us to go. He was named Benjamin and wanted to "take us as his friend".
Hm. I'm a little nervous about spending time writing this, because I fear I won't be able to send it, but we'll see.
One our way back to Ho we took a tro-tro. We got on and after it filled there was a man who tried to sell a magic water bottle. It was a thermos and if you drank water out of it, it heals any disease you may have. "malaria, asthma, stroke, heart attack, and whatever, and whatever", "stroke, head ache, and so on, and so on". It even "heals diseases for old people in advance". No body bought one, but someone did offer a lower price.
He also was selling tea that helps with both malaria and menstruation.
Oh, one funny quote from the trip was when we were laying in bed one evening. Anna called Jackie British (she is from New Zealand). Jackie responded by saying "I wish you were Canadian so I could call you an American".
On a similar note, so many of the people I meet ask me about Bush and what the chances are that Kerry will win. Bush is definitely not popular here; they all think that he does bad things for the American people and the world in general. At least the rest of the world is pulling for Kerry.
Before I forget, thank you to all you who sent birthday greetings. If you didn't, don't feel bad, I forgot too for most of the day. Besides, I probably don't know when yours is.
Once we got back to Sokode (on the 17th). We went to Kweku's and said goodbye to Kosi. Kosi went to Kumasi (a city in central Ghana) for work for a few months. It was sad to say goodbye, but I did get to give him an R.
Kelly CD (he really loves music and didn't know R&B) and my Nalgene bottle.
The guys are really impressed with Nalgenes and the fact that they don't break. Kweku said they spent a long time trying to break it.
Ah, Abra (Anna's Ghanaian name) has amazing friends. I can't tell you how much I enjoy hanging out with them.
The 18th we started the day at the farm and then went to Kweku's for lunch/dinner. En route I got to meet the town drunk. She is also the town midwife. Another reason that Anna says she will not have a child here.
I have learned that I am not good at pingpong and am a failure at Checkers - Ghana style. The rules are different, but I am not sure I really understand them.
I'm still struggling with what I wrote in the last email. I want to rescind the idea that everyone can accomplish anything in the US. I think that was too privileged to write. I don't face racism, poverty, and everything daily. I walk the streets here and think about how uncomfortable it is to be chased and called "yevu", but, like I have said before, I am treated as if I am a celebrity or someone important. I may not want to be and I may do everything I can, not to be, but that's how it is. People of color in the US are treated negatively and have to stand out. I have gone jogging here and, as I traveled the road, little kids have chased me and screamed "Yevu".
Never have I felt scared. Someone I know in Decorah once got run off the road on a bike because of the color of his/her skin. One of my friends had eggs thrown at him and told to "go back to Africa". So many non-blatant forms of racism overwhelm daily lives. The average worth of a white family with the same income of a black family is 8 times higher! This is based on the history that is defining today. Because people of color have been denied access to "owning" they were not able to acquire equity. White privilege is inherited financially. There are so many other ways that I really should write about, but I definitely would take the entire day.
Basically, I am saying, that not everyone has the opportunity to do whatever they want in the US, I wasn't really thinking about everything in that last email (but I still feel the entrapment of Anna's friends. I am still wondering how much of my personal biases shape this thought). So there. I have a lot more to say about this, but not a lot of time. I have a lot to learn. I will keep doing so, and then try and fix it. Wanna help?
This morning Abra and I spent 2.5 hours waiting for a meeting that was supposed to start at 10 (she says that happens a lot), so while we were waiting we drew up a conversation outlining her typical experience as she walks through town. Here it goes:
Townsperson: "Yevu sister Abra!"
Abra: "Good morning."
T: "Fine, morning, how are the people in the house?"
A: "They are fine."
T: "Are you fine?"
A: "Yes."
T: "Did you wake up strong?:
A: "Yes"
T: "Are you alive?"
A: "Yes (to this, I think she should start saying no, and see the reaction)"
T: "Where are you going?"
A: "I am going to (Ho (city near by), Senegal, American (to make people laugh))
T: "What will you do??"
A: "I am going to work."
T: "Will you return early?"
A: "Probably evening time. (sometimes to be funny "three days", etc)
T: "What will you bring me??"
A: (normal) "Bread/ biscuit, (funny) three cows/goats/horses"
Or
T: "Bring me bread."
A: "Ok" (She doesn't actually bring it, it is just a customary things to say when someone travels)
T: "Come in time."
A: "Ok."
Three minutes later
T2: "Are you awake?"
A: "Yes."
T2: "Are you well?"
A: "Yes."
T2: "Is the husband well?"
A: "I don't have a husband." (which everyone knows already)
T2 (if male): "I will take you as my wife."
A: "Wait, and ask my father."
-or, if T2 is female -
"You should marry my son." - or - "You are grown, why?"
T2: "Where are you going." (see last section) 30 seconds later, encountering someone from out of town.
A: "Good morning."
T2: "Hey! She speaks Ewe! Oh, you try! (means good job) I will take you as my friend."
A: "Ok."
T2: "Where are you going?"
(see above).
On a side note, I won't be able to respond to individual messages today, the computer is too slow.
So, on a not so happy note, the meeting this morning was to have a photo with orphans that the NGO Anna works for is assisting. There was a little girl with them who flinched a lot, and was really afraid of everything. We are wondering if she gets picked on and/or hit. She was being drug along by an older girl who was Developmentally Disabled. I think it is great that the organization is giving responsibility to someone with a DD, but she was a very angry child and kept hitting the little girl. At one point the little girl was crying. The older girl hit her, and no one did anything to 1) reprimand her, or 2) to comfort the little girl crying. I guess I don't know what to say about it. I'm at a loss for explanation and confused as to how much my American lenses block me.
The photo situation was also rather taxing. I was invited to be in the photo but didn't want to. Too often the experience of Peace Corps volunteers is simply bringing prestige to a place because they are white.
That's the way it is, so, is it good if the volunteer does it and helps the NGO? Should they refuse because it is simply cementing the idea of white being better?
As I said, I am learning a lot about myself here. I have learned that I really am an American. I like the US. I love traveling and staying in places for months, but I don't think that I could live in a "developing" country for real. Maybe if I was with the right people who were able to keep me grounded, or if I made the friends who would. (Unless, someone wants to pay me to be a travel writer, I wouldn't mind that. I may have some serious improvement to do in regards to the actually writing, but, yeah). I think that my frustration with things I didn't support in the culture would make me crazy. I am not sure how appropriate I think it is to change things somewhere else. (But, if I was a travel writer, I could give a new perspective to those who read what I write). I think that empowering people who want to make change is great, but you cannot force a culture to change. Who am I to use my western lenses to say that something is wrong?
Who am I to tell women they shouldn't wear a veil when they want to? (look what happened when the Shah did in Iran - ok, that is too simplistic, but, you get the idea). Who am I to tell women they shouldn't have a circumcision when it would condemn them to a life of being single and therefore have great difficulty surviving? Basically, I don't think I have the right to judge the way other people live. I think that we all are within a certain group, and it is our RESPONSIBILITY to help that group live morally. I am a white American. White Americans have a lot of work to do within their own group. Anyway, what I am saying is that if I lived
elsewhere I wouldn't be able to deal with the conflicting emotions of 1) the problems I see and 2) the fact that my lenses are not theirs. Perhaps in the minds of the people living somewhere, the issues that bother me are not as important as others. Who am I to tell them what to do?
Also, I like running water and electricity. I like not smelling and not having to be called "Yevu" all the time. I like having the concept of "time" to have meaning, etc. So, while there are so many things I don't like about the US, and things I love about the places I have been, I have realized that I am an American and want to work on my own nation first.
(Before leaving I was really stressing about whether I thought I should work domestically or on international development).
OK, I think I should step off my high horse and send this email. Abra and I have other funny stories, but maybe I'll wait until people ask to hear them.
I would love a great dialogue with anyone about all this, especially if you disagree with me
Love and peace, Krissy
24 April 2004
Notes from the Federal Marriage Ammendment Hearings
Part one:
Today was Tuesday, and that means that I get to get up at 5:15 and take the ever-exciting bus ride into dc to hang out in senator !@#%^$^#$&’s office… and, every week it is very worth the effort (although the night before I wonder sometimes).
Anyway, why am I sending a semimass email about that? Because today I got to go to the senate hearing on the fma (federal marriage amendment) and thought you may all be interested in what I learned/saw/etc
First, I have to tell you how awesome it was as compared to other hearings… for example, I went to an Amtrak hearing… and no one really showed up… and it was rather dry. At this hearing not only were senators/representatives and “experts” testifying, but ted kennedy, russ feingold, senator durbin, and others came to ask questions/give statements/etc…
So, here is how the morning began:
I got off my bus and walked to 0.5 miles up capital hill… noticing the looooonnnngggg line outside the russel building I called fiengolds office and asked if I could go to the fma hearing and not stop in the office… no problem… so, I entered the building. The line of people who wanted to go to the hearing was all the way down and around the Russell building. Luckily, I have a staffer pass and got to sneak in (regardless, I stood in the back in case there were some people who weren’t good standers who wanted to come).
Anyway, the room was packed, and that was awesome…
So, the chairperson of the senate hearing committee (his name escapes me, but he is a senator from texas) began by giving his position on the topic. These are his key points:
There are three myths about gay marriage in his eyes 1) “my marriage does not affect your marriage”… rather, he argued… gay marriage would reduce the institution of marriage to a financial agreement and that would be bad for family life. 2) “we don’t need to amend the constitution to defend traditional marriage” – in his view this was necessary in order to prevent change from “activist judges”. He also felt that states couldn’t handle this issue on their own because they would be unable to stand up to federal laws. 3) the amendment is “Writing discrimination into the constitution” – on the contrary he argued that because the naacp and the American bar association hadn’t taken a stance, then it must not be discriminatory (just wait till we get to the part when the lady from the aba spoke)
So, after he was done (yes, I have a lot of thoughts about all that, but I’m just going to tell you what everyone said)… senator feinstien (CA) spoke. Her main points were as follows: 1) this amendment was limiting rights, rather than extending or preserving them as all other amendments (aside from prohibition which was repealed) had. 2) in the past, states have always done well controlling their own laws on marriage. She sited massachusettes actions now – bringing it to a referendum by the PEOPLE to see what should be done. He also sited California proposition 22 which had amended the constitution to limit marriage there to men and women… and she talked about interracial marriage and how it was illegal in some states and not others 3) she discussed the fact that no state was going to be forced to recognize or follow the actions of another state – like polygamy, incest, interracial relationships in the past and present
Wow… I’m realizing that this email is going to get long… but the hearing was 3 hours long… so, yeah, you can stop reading at any time…
Senator feinstein also argued that, according to a recent poll, only 20% of the people supported the FMA… and, perhaps her most interesting argument, she was very concerned about the fact that the commission bringing forth the amendment had changed the language the day before. Previously it had explicitly outlawed civil unions and domestic partnerships as well… now the language read that “marriage or legal incidents there of” cannot be legalized by states. So, her question then was, how was a civil union different that the “legal incidents” or marriage if they were not going to provide equal rights for people in unions and not marriage. She also discussed how complex this change demonstrated the topic to be – changing it 24 hours before the hearing…
So, then they had the panelists speak. The panel was made of 4 people – two supporting the amendment, and two against it. First senator allen – the one who introduced fma – spoke. His key points are as follows: 1) he changed the words so that he could define marriage, maintain a role for states, and limit the actions of activist judges (these are the same issues everyone else was saying the new language limited… so that was a point of tension – but, seriously, how is federally mandating something preserving states rights, and how are “legal incidents” provided by marriage not limiting the rights that could be given in unions or partnerships)… 2) marriage is the foundation of all civilizations, and it is cross cultural for hetero relationships. He sees it as the basic unit of society and the expression of people…
Next representative franks (mass) spoke. He is one of a few “out” representatives (another being tammy Baldwin – yea! Wisconsin!). he was amazing and made me cry. First, he recapped what he had heard summing up the arguments of others as “a need to prevent “activist” judges (the term which he mentioned was ironic, and definitely subjective and of our times – did people call judges allowing interracial relationships activists??)… and the second argument he was hearing was the need to preserve states rights. In franks eyes the amendment does the following 1) it takes away states rights – using the example of massachusettes. If the referendum in may passes, the fma will take away the states rights to make its own law in this situation 2) denies states in general to decide marriage laws 3) traditional marriage will not be effected. In his words (this made everyone laugh) “same sex marriage will be entirely optional”. And he argued that it was the ultimate form of flattery. He saw the desire for marriage as gay people recognizing that straight couples had something good, and that they wanted to share part of it. How would that detract from marriage? Another great line of his was that the amendment was punishing “millions of people who are threatening to commit love”. 4) he defeated the argument of it being better for kids to be in straight families (which most psychologists don’t support anyway) by pointing out that gay people have kids now, and will continue to do so…. The part that made me cry was when he almost started crying, and openly and honestly asked the panel why they were so afraid of him and his love… oh my god, he was so eloquent, if you can get a tape of this conference, you HAVE to listen to him speak…
Ok, I’m going to get a little speedier now, mostly because a lot of repetition started and b/c this is so long I don’t think you’re reading it anymore (except maybe Lindsay)
The next speaker was representative lewis – he opposed the amendment and the righting of discrimination into the constitution. He is an African American rep, from rural Alabama, and a Baptist minister… he said that his experience fighting for racial civil rights made it impossible for him to not fight for these rights. He asked the question - - if in 1954 the congress had made an amendment saying that segregation was legal, where would brown vs boe have put us? If in 1967 (the year before the love decision legalizing interracial marriage in Virginia) the congress had made an amendment making interracial relationships illegal, where would we be??? He says no to 2nd class status, and that this amendment prevented the mission of equal rights under the law – that separate is not equal. He also argued that our rights should not be determined based on the approval of others, or the feeling of the times – rather, they should be based on the status we have as Americans to have liberties and freedoms… all people are the same – with hopes, dreams, and troubles, therefore we should all be treated the same…
Finally, there was cosponsor to the bill, representative musgrave… she said that *some counselors say straight couples are better for kids and that *some legal experts say gay marriage is a threat to the traditional institution of marriage. She talked a lot about DOMA in 1996. he also was using reverend Richardson and the AME church to say that it wasn’t discrimination to amend the constitution (krissy side note, what happened to separation of church and state?? Isn’t’ this ENTIRE argument a religious debate and not something the state should mandate anyway?)
Then they opened for questions… I’ll just give you key parts (new arguments)
Kennedy (I love watching him debate) argued that the fed gov’t shouldn’t dictate state marriage laws – ended up talking with allen and concluding that VT would have to overturn their civil union laws b/c they have the same “legal incidents” as marriage and that would be unconstitutional --- he also made people conclude that the goodridge decision would have to be overturned (it made it illegal for the states to discriminate against glbt peoples)
Feingold was upset that we were spending so much time on this… he felt that if we were really worried about kids and families we should be debating how to improve education, etc rather than this. He also was upset that they were rushing this amendment, and declared that it was a political move in an election year. In the past amendments take years to come to vote… and NEVER are in hearing within 24 hours of getting new language. He also said that there is no need for an amendment, and that no state has been forced to accept the rules of a different state – it isnt’ a federal issue.
Senator durbin agued that the amendment was against the oath of office all members take (to defend the constitution) – especially because of the intense rush to amend. He also questioned why polygamy was edited out of the new language – why it was still going to be legal for states to determine that – however, by this time allen and musgrave had left, so they couldn’t answer questions.
After that they had a legal expert panel – we didn’t learn much except that the am. Bar association was opposed to the amendment and felt as though it limits states authority and hurts the rights of kids of same sex couples to be protected under the law.
The rest of the arguments were just repeats – basically the people supporting the amendment are arguing 1) stop activist judges 2) protect traditional marriage 3) protect kids
Everyone else was like – um, what?!?! The amendment 1) discriminates and makes it legal 2) opposes the purpose of the constitution to grant us rights 3) limits states rights and all that on top of the fact that 4) traditional marriage wont change, we will just have other options for people who don’t fit that mold 5) kids are best off when protected by the law and with people who love them – why prevent that?
There was obviously a lot more, but that was the gist of it… hopefully you aren’t too bored, and if you didn’t make it this far… then you don’t get to find out that I almost ran over senator lieberman on my way out tonight…
Part Two:
ok, i do have to put a small krissy spin on all this...
what the hell are people talking about with liberal media?!?! i was THERE and i can tell you as a PRIMARY source (hello, we learned about his in like 8th grade) that the supporters of FMA fell FLAT on their faces in the debate (and i'm not even saying that b/c i'm bias - but b/c i wasn't mad at them, i felt sorry for them, normally when people are mean i get mad/angry... but i couldnt even do that b/c they couldn't stand up for their own amendment) yet you watch the LIBERAL media and the ACTIVST judges and it looks like the amendments is super popular and doesn't have any roughspots... bullcrap - i wish the entire nation could have been in that room with me...
AHHH!!!
Today was Tuesday, and that means that I get to get up at 5:15 and take the ever-exciting bus ride into dc to hang out in senator !@#%^$^#$&’s office… and, every week it is very worth the effort (although the night before I wonder sometimes).
Anyway, why am I sending a semimass email about that? Because today I got to go to the senate hearing on the fma (federal marriage amendment) and thought you may all be interested in what I learned/saw/etc
First, I have to tell you how awesome it was as compared to other hearings… for example, I went to an Amtrak hearing… and no one really showed up… and it was rather dry. At this hearing not only were senators/representatives and “experts” testifying, but ted kennedy, russ feingold, senator durbin, and others came to ask questions/give statements/etc…
So, here is how the morning began:
I got off my bus and walked to 0.5 miles up capital hill… noticing the looooonnnngggg line outside the russel building I called fiengolds office and asked if I could go to the fma hearing and not stop in the office… no problem… so, I entered the building. The line of people who wanted to go to the hearing was all the way down and around the Russell building. Luckily, I have a staffer pass and got to sneak in (regardless, I stood in the back in case there were some people who weren’t good standers who wanted to come).
Anyway, the room was packed, and that was awesome…
So, the chairperson of the senate hearing committee (his name escapes me, but he is a senator from texas) began by giving his position on the topic. These are his key points:
There are three myths about gay marriage in his eyes 1) “my marriage does not affect your marriage”… rather, he argued… gay marriage would reduce the institution of marriage to a financial agreement and that would be bad for family life. 2) “we don’t need to amend the constitution to defend traditional marriage” – in his view this was necessary in order to prevent change from “activist judges”. He also felt that states couldn’t handle this issue on their own because they would be unable to stand up to federal laws. 3) the amendment is “Writing discrimination into the constitution” – on the contrary he argued that because the naacp and the American bar association hadn’t taken a stance, then it must not be discriminatory (just wait till we get to the part when the lady from the aba spoke)
So, after he was done (yes, I have a lot of thoughts about all that, but I’m just going to tell you what everyone said)… senator feinstien (CA) spoke. Her main points were as follows: 1) this amendment was limiting rights, rather than extending or preserving them as all other amendments (aside from prohibition which was repealed) had. 2) in the past, states have always done well controlling their own laws on marriage. She sited massachusettes actions now – bringing it to a referendum by the PEOPLE to see what should be done. He also sited California proposition 22 which had amended the constitution to limit marriage there to men and women… and she talked about interracial marriage and how it was illegal in some states and not others 3) she discussed the fact that no state was going to be forced to recognize or follow the actions of another state – like polygamy, incest, interracial relationships in the past and present
Wow… I’m realizing that this email is going to get long… but the hearing was 3 hours long… so, yeah, you can stop reading at any time…
Senator feinstein also argued that, according to a recent poll, only 20% of the people supported the FMA… and, perhaps her most interesting argument, she was very concerned about the fact that the commission bringing forth the amendment had changed the language the day before. Previously it had explicitly outlawed civil unions and domestic partnerships as well… now the language read that “marriage or legal incidents there of” cannot be legalized by states. So, her question then was, how was a civil union different that the “legal incidents” or marriage if they were not going to provide equal rights for people in unions and not marriage. She also discussed how complex this change demonstrated the topic to be – changing it 24 hours before the hearing…
So, then they had the panelists speak. The panel was made of 4 people – two supporting the amendment, and two against it. First senator allen – the one who introduced fma – spoke. His key points are as follows: 1) he changed the words so that he could define marriage, maintain a role for states, and limit the actions of activist judges (these are the same issues everyone else was saying the new language limited… so that was a point of tension – but, seriously, how is federally mandating something preserving states rights, and how are “legal incidents” provided by marriage not limiting the rights that could be given in unions or partnerships)… 2) marriage is the foundation of all civilizations, and it is cross cultural for hetero relationships. He sees it as the basic unit of society and the expression of people…
Next representative franks (mass) spoke. He is one of a few “out” representatives (another being tammy Baldwin – yea! Wisconsin!). he was amazing and made me cry. First, he recapped what he had heard summing up the arguments of others as “a need to prevent “activist” judges (the term which he mentioned was ironic, and definitely subjective and of our times – did people call judges allowing interracial relationships activists??)… and the second argument he was hearing was the need to preserve states rights. In franks eyes the amendment does the following 1) it takes away states rights – using the example of massachusettes. If the referendum in may passes, the fma will take away the states rights to make its own law in this situation 2) denies states in general to decide marriage laws 3) traditional marriage will not be effected. In his words (this made everyone laugh) “same sex marriage will be entirely optional”. And he argued that it was the ultimate form of flattery. He saw the desire for marriage as gay people recognizing that straight couples had something good, and that they wanted to share part of it. How would that detract from marriage? Another great line of his was that the amendment was punishing “millions of people who are threatening to commit love”. 4) he defeated the argument of it being better for kids to be in straight families (which most psychologists don’t support anyway) by pointing out that gay people have kids now, and will continue to do so…. The part that made me cry was when he almost started crying, and openly and honestly asked the panel why they were so afraid of him and his love… oh my god, he was so eloquent, if you can get a tape of this conference, you HAVE to listen to him speak…
Ok, I’m going to get a little speedier now, mostly because a lot of repetition started and b/c this is so long I don’t think you’re reading it anymore (except maybe Lindsay)
The next speaker was representative lewis – he opposed the amendment and the righting of discrimination into the constitution. He is an African American rep, from rural Alabama, and a Baptist minister… he said that his experience fighting for racial civil rights made it impossible for him to not fight for these rights. He asked the question - - if in 1954 the congress had made an amendment saying that segregation was legal, where would brown vs boe have put us? If in 1967 (the year before the love decision legalizing interracial marriage in Virginia) the congress had made an amendment making interracial relationships illegal, where would we be??? He says no to 2nd class status, and that this amendment prevented the mission of equal rights under the law – that separate is not equal. He also argued that our rights should not be determined based on the approval of others, or the feeling of the times – rather, they should be based on the status we have as Americans to have liberties and freedoms… all people are the same – with hopes, dreams, and troubles, therefore we should all be treated the same…
Finally, there was cosponsor to the bill, representative musgrave… she said that *some counselors say straight couples are better for kids and that *some legal experts say gay marriage is a threat to the traditional institution of marriage. She talked a lot about DOMA in 1996. he also was using reverend Richardson and the AME church to say that it wasn’t discrimination to amend the constitution (krissy side note, what happened to separation of church and state?? Isn’t’ this ENTIRE argument a religious debate and not something the state should mandate anyway?)
Then they opened for questions… I’ll just give you key parts (new arguments)
Kennedy (I love watching him debate) argued that the fed gov’t shouldn’t dictate state marriage laws – ended up talking with allen and concluding that VT would have to overturn their civil union laws b/c they have the same “legal incidents” as marriage and that would be unconstitutional --- he also made people conclude that the goodridge decision would have to be overturned (it made it illegal for the states to discriminate against glbt peoples)
Feingold was upset that we were spending so much time on this… he felt that if we were really worried about kids and families we should be debating how to improve education, etc rather than this. He also was upset that they were rushing this amendment, and declared that it was a political move in an election year. In the past amendments take years to come to vote… and NEVER are in hearing within 24 hours of getting new language. He also said that there is no need for an amendment, and that no state has been forced to accept the rules of a different state – it isnt’ a federal issue.
Senator durbin agued that the amendment was against the oath of office all members take (to defend the constitution) – especially because of the intense rush to amend. He also questioned why polygamy was edited out of the new language – why it was still going to be legal for states to determine that – however, by this time allen and musgrave had left, so they couldn’t answer questions.
After that they had a legal expert panel – we didn’t learn much except that the am. Bar association was opposed to the amendment and felt as though it limits states authority and hurts the rights of kids of same sex couples to be protected under the law.
The rest of the arguments were just repeats – basically the people supporting the amendment are arguing 1) stop activist judges 2) protect traditional marriage 3) protect kids
Everyone else was like – um, what?!?! The amendment 1) discriminates and makes it legal 2) opposes the purpose of the constitution to grant us rights 3) limits states rights and all that on top of the fact that 4) traditional marriage wont change, we will just have other options for people who don’t fit that mold 5) kids are best off when protected by the law and with people who love them – why prevent that?
There was obviously a lot more, but that was the gist of it… hopefully you aren’t too bored, and if you didn’t make it this far… then you don’t get to find out that I almost ran over senator lieberman on my way out tonight…
Part Two:
ok, i do have to put a small krissy spin on all this...
what the hell are people talking about with liberal media?!?! i was THERE and i can tell you as a PRIMARY source (hello, we learned about his in like 8th grade) that the supporters of FMA fell FLAT on their faces in the debate (and i'm not even saying that b/c i'm bias - but b/c i wasn't mad at them, i felt sorry for them, normally when people are mean i get mad/angry... but i couldnt even do that b/c they couldn't stand up for their own amendment) yet you watch the LIBERAL media and the ACTIVST judges and it looks like the amendments is super popular and doesn't have any roughspots... bullcrap - i wish the entire nation could have been in that room with me...
AHHH!!!
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